Productively unemployed

Someday I'll have a real job, I imagine. At least that's what happens in books I read or movies I watch. A life where the days of the week matter and I become concerned about "quick meal ideas". So for now, while I'm still somehow getting by on odd jobs and living simply and content, I should be making as much clothing as possible. The day will come where I arrive home with aching feet and numbness of mind and spend my evening looking in the opposite direction of my sewing machine so as not to feel creative guilt. Then again, maybe not.

That leads me to the latest items hot off of my Singer Starlet! I should photograph my "new" sewing machine to show you all, she is a beaut. Even has a decal on it of a sunset in rather ominous tones of orange and brown.

Second Hand Fabrics. Size Medium.

 This is a rather sexy tank top in my opinion. (Using the word 'rather' probably takes away from the sexiness huh? I'll work on my lingo.) Could be the slim fit underneath or the flowing pieces of fabric in the front, either way I know for a fact it should be danced in.

Second and First Hand Fabrics. Small/Medium.

Newest dress!
Similar to the last ones. I used cotton for the main part and silk for the center. Yes, plaid silk. I love this combination of colours. A perfect palette for earth and water.













This morning, when I should have been still sleeping, instead I was imagining this next top as a dress. So, that is next to come. The same design as these summer tops but longer and with belts.  I still do very much love this top as it is. It kind of reminds me of a grandmother's throw pillow but there is a loveliness about the crochet design and a slight sheen to the sky blue cotton that makes it quite elegant and pretty and all together very nostalgic.

Second Hand Fabrics. Size Medium/Large.

Prison Mannequin.

Once again these items are available at The Green Man. The first two are already there and the third is on it's way.

Spring/summer designs, pre-made!

I was urged by friend, and owner and operator of The Green Man, Kelly Caseley, to make some clothing for her store. Initially I was going to make items using the designs from Stay-Stitched, but realized the fun part of sewing is the designing. For me, the challenge of finding a solution to a particular problem, as in how to use natural fabric rather than stretch fabric or how to make an item with as few steps as possible, is the most exciting part. After that it's an endless variety of combinations of colours and fabric to achieve the final result. I worked mostly with second hand fabric, mainly because of the environmental concern of wasted fabric but also because it is much more affordable and it narrows down my choice significantly, so that I'm not staring at a pile of fabric with blurry eyes and a lot of sighing.

I really enjoy the following designs. Each involve a process of steps I still find fun, like attaching trims or bias tape. They still don't involve things that are not fun, like sewing in zippers or buttons. And in the case of the dress (at end of post), I never really know how they will look until almost finished since they really need a form to fill it out, so that's always a fun surprise.

Size Large. Mix of first and second hand fabric.

Size small. Mix of first and second hand fabric.

 First up are some simple tank tops. I always have issues with hemming necklines and I've found facing to be the best solution. Facing is usually on the inside of a garment but I found it pretty effective to have it on the outside as a decorative element.

Size Medium. Second hand fabrics.

In the case of the shirt on the left, the over layer goes around the armholes as well, eliminating all kinds of hemming! I like how these shirts hang, sort of out on a diagonal and somewhat wide. Pair them with slim fitting pants or shorts for that 50's or 60's mod look.

For those who still want it cinched at the waist you could wear it with a belt or tuck it into high waist pants and have the over layer stand out.

Size Large. Second hand fabric and handkerchief.

Size Medium. Second hand fabrics.

I'm kind of in love with this top on the left and may keep it for myself. The crocheted piece came from an old dress that I had already dismantled for parts. (I think I made the skirt of it into yoga pants...it was not crocheted)

The top on the right reminds me of eggs.










Skirts! What could be simpler than these? The nice and wide elastic waist band is super flattering. Just tuck in a slim fitting, simple tank top and your done.

Size small and medium available. Second hand fabric.

Size Medium/Large. Second hand fabric.

Size Large. Very vintage fabric.

Size small-large. Second hand fabric.

Bicycle dress! This is actually a pattern from my book, so I didn't abandon it entirely. I wanted to use the entire image on the fabric so it was the perfect fit for this design. Very accommodating as it works on pretty much anyone ranging from size small to large.


This is a new design that I love a lot and will be using much more. So very comfortable, versatile, and accepting of different kinds of fabric. You can use basically anything and it will work out.

Size Medium/Large. Second hand fabric.
 

Detail of back ties.

Size Medium/Large. Second hand fabrics.

 They are made from two different fabrics, matching or contrasting or whatever I think works well and stands out from the pile. This first one is shown tied in the back with the back detail. Since there is a tie, they are adjustable and can fit a couple of sizes.

The one in two shades of green is a bit shorter, more like a tunic, and would be great with tights.

Size Medium/Large.

Back detail

Second hand fabric and handkercheif.

Backgammon anyone? The silk handkerchief used in the dress above reminds me of that and cards. Gold, in silk, can't really go wrong. I felt the blue went with it tonally and also added a splash of necessary colour to eliminate the 70's bachelor vibe I was getting.

Size Small/Medium. Second hand fabric and handkerchief.

All my favorite colours (right now) wrapped up in one dress. Blush and gold and creamy beige with some black to make it all stand out. Yep, pretty happy with this one. 


Well that is all for now. A few weeks worth of sewing that I'm really happy with. Stay tuned for high waist shorts! They're cranberry, they've got pockets, and they kind of remind me of gym class in the 60's. They take a bit longer to make so I'll whip some out when the season is right...although, they look mighty good with tights.

These items will be for sale at The Green Man as soon as tomorrow! (April 12th)

Probably should have posted this awhile ago, but...

Stay-Stitched is available at the following locations!

PEI

Charlottetown - The Green Man
                          The Bookmark
                          MUSE artspace
                          Owl's Hollow
                          My apartment

O'Leary - Guardian Drugs
                Fabric, Crafts'n more
                Co-op
                My Mom and Dad's house


Alberton - Bonnie's Boutique


New Brunswick

Moncton - Artsy Et Vintage

Fredericton - ReNeu Boutique



Nova Scotia

Halifax - Love, Me Boutique
               Spree Designer's Market
               Atlantic News
               Lost and Found
               Biscuit General Store
               P'Lovers

Newfoundland and Labrador

St. John's - Model Citizen
                   The Bookery, Sweet Relic



Or, if you do not live close to any of these locations, you can purchase it on Etsy. So many ways to buy it, hurray!

Gathered pieces

There were a couple of items missing from my last post. They were posing at MUSE, the location of the book launch, to serve as examples of the finished projects.

These two pieces are similar in that they require fabric that gathers easily and elegantly. I don't like to pick favorites...actually, I do that everyday in everything I use and consume, so yes, these could be my favorite pieces. They are both incredibly easy to wear, can be so very romantic in the right fabric, and coincidentally are the easiest items to make since they are not fitted to the body.

First up is the Chemise. I found this awesome sheer fabric second hand for around three bucks.
The photos don't do it justice, but it shimmers various shades of a lime-y green and golden yellow. It served this purpose perfectly because of its ability to gather very tightly. I used the same fabric for the casing around the neckline and just zig-zag stitched the sleeves. I hate having to hem sheer fabric, especially at the bottom of a dress. It's annoying and can cause the area to stiffen. So, rather then hemming, I made sure when drawing out the pattern that the bottom was on the selvage (edge) of the fabric, which is already finished and won't unravel. Then, when sewing the sides, I went from the bottom up so that the edges would line up perfectly. Plan to avoid extra work!

This close up shows the gathers concentrated rather than spread out, I like it a "bunch". 

 

 

 

 

 

Next is the Retro Dress, featured in the Stay-Stitched video. This fabric reminded me of figure skating dress material. Super stretchy, super metallic and shiny, and a weight that makes it quite slinky, all perfect qualities for this piece. It was able to gather in as many gathers as I wanted. I could have made it twice as wide and it would have still worked. If you haven't looked in the book yet, let me just tell you how simple this dress is...it's a rectangle, that's it. A rectangle with a hem at the top and a side seam. Yep. The belt was homemade ... actually I stole it from the kimono since it was just the right shade of burgundy to pick up on some colors in the dress. This was my New Years outfit, with a cardigan over top and some slippers. It was chilly and the party was at our place so I was allowed to be comfortable.

In the top hem I used a chain necklace. It suited the dress without taking anything away from it. Look at those lil' gathers!

If you're looking for something easy to wear and versatile, these two items are the ticket. It may take some extra searching to find that perfect fabric, but when you do, you don't need much. And most importantly, you can whip up this piece in very little time and accessorize with items you already own.

Designs in Real Life

These are some finished items I've made using the designs from Stay-Stitched, which were on display at the book launching last Friday. The night went so well that I forgot entirely to photograph the pieces and instead yammered on to friends and guests all night while shoving adorable mini cupcakes into my face whenever I got the chance. Luckily, I was able to still photograph the outfits on the gold headless lady yesterday before returning her.

The first one on the left is the A-Line Skirt. Fairly standard, and for good reason, it lays very nicely when you cut the fabric out on the bias (explained in the book) creating a snug fit around the hips while reducing excess fabric around the waist. I used %100 cotton, showing the wrong side of the fabric to dull the print a bit.

To the right is a close up of the waistline. I used a sort of stretchy bias tape, which could actually be the fold over elastic I've been hearing about. I don't think it is though because the stretch isn't that extreme. It did the trick for this project though.







Next is the Circle Skirt. Also very classic and incredibly easy to make.
I used a 1/2" elastic in the waistline casing and then stitched through all layers in the center of the casing to prevent the elastic from flipping. It also makes it look neater because the fabric isn't bunching up as much. The fabric was originally a bed sheet that I purchased second hand. And yes, that is St. Bartholomew from The Last Judgment by Michelangelo, good eye.






















The Egyptian Tunic, pictured below, was made from a cotton poly mix...I think. Most of the fabric I buy is either discount or second hand so I rarely know what it is made up of. Even though I prefer to work with pure fabrics like cotton or silk, it doesn't always happen, and sometimes the piece is better because of it.

I really like the style of this item and think it could be very versatile if you wanted to play around with how high the waistline is and the length and flair of the skirt. It's also fun to try with a variety of shirts. Button downs look especially great.

 The Island Dress is my own design and features a pleat in the front of the dress that you taper in at the waist using a hook and eye. I wanted a simple dress that was fitted and slim without having to use stretchy fabric or an elastic waistline. Because of the pleat, you can use any fabric for this dress and still be able to get it over your head and then taper it in to flatter the waist. The secret is to make sure your initial measurements are very fitted so that after you put the pleat it, the sides of it will come together for a snug fit around the waist. I used a cotton fabric called seersucker, which always makes me think of a Sapsucker.

This piece also provides a good chance to try out sewing darts! Fun with fitting!

Everyone is probably familiar with the Kimono. The version I've altered for the book is simplified so much that it is unbelievably easy to make. The measurements and drawing out of the design may seem tricky, but if you really take your time and read it over well you'll have no trouble. But please, let me know if you do! I'd be happy to help out or just take some feedback. I used some ultra synthetic rayon-ish fabric for this. It drapes so nicely and feels quite good on. The only con was that the colour ran everywhere. My machine, iron, ironing board, and finger tips were all pink afterwards. I guess it wasn't safe to assume that fabrics are all colourfast now.

 The outfit below has a pretty nautical feel to it, all it would need is some grommets in the V of the neckline with a lace crisscrossing through. It is made up of a Viking Tunic and Sailor Pants. I made the Viking Tunic from a heavy cotton stretch fabric that used to be a Issey Miyake dress I made years ago. Luckily the pattern called for large pieces that wrap around so that I could take it apart and have good chunks to work with. This sort of fabric doesn't require much hemming so I just used a bias tape like finish on the neckline and left the other edges alone. 

Sailor Pants! I was watching an old western called Goin' South starring Jack Nicholson and really appreciated his pants. The front had two flaps that crossed over one another and there were long strips of fabric attached which would tie around the waist. I don't like added bulk around the waistline so I went with the two front flaps and then you have the option of using hook and eyes, buttons, or whatever closure you like. The close-ups show the darts at the back of the pants to tailor the waist in and the cross over in the front using buttons to secure the flaps.

Next is a style of shirt/shawl sort of thing that has become very popular, and for good reason. They are really comfortable, can be very elegant in the right fabric, and you have the added bonus of wearing half a blanket. I got the idea for the Throw Shirt from a knitted shirt I saw years ago. It's simply a rectangle of fabric with sleeves put in and then I made a few minor adjustments to create the shoulder area. It is a good introduction to making and attaching sleeves and because that is basically the only major step, you can focus fully on getting it right.

The Tote Bag. Simple, strong, and effective. It is an item that has infinite variations. You can really have fun with this since it doesn't need to be precise in the end. Of course it looks better if the handles are straight, but there are always ways to fix your mistakes...or at least disguise them. This particular bag is made from a heavy cotton, almost canvas like, fabric that is really perfect for this purpose. It was purchased second hand along with three belts that are used for the straps. 

 These last two images are of the outfit I made for the book launch. Gotta represent. I wanted to wear as much as I could of the designs to showcase them and show their potential. I made the Viking Tunic out of just about the most beautiful fabric ever when it comes to shears. It is a Georgette, made from rayon I believe but was traditionally made of silk, which I'm sure it still comes in as well. It was the fabric I touched the most while working at Fabricville so when I saw it, in a colour I loved, on the discount rack, well, it was meant to be. I snagged it. The shirt was so nice I made it twice... all because the pink from the kimono fabric I spoke of earlier was on my iron,  resulting in a pink blotch around the neckline. Boo. I'm sure the second one came out even better though.

For the Egyptian Tunic I used a wool blanket purchased second hand. I wanted it in wool so that worked out quite well. I made a light cotton shift dress to wear underneath to guard against some of the itchiness. Not knowing how this would turn out, I was really happy with the result. I cut it on the bias so that the wool would have some give when I pulled it on. It really hugs the body and has a nice and firm drape. The blanket stitching on the straps was part of the blanket, a detail I was happy to keep.

Okay, that is all for now. There are still two pieces yet to come which I just need to photograph. They are on display at MUSE, where my book launch was held and where there are books for sale, acting as some samples of what could be.

I hope this gives a better idea of the potential of these designs and the variety of styles that can be attained from them. I'm sure I will continue to make these items as I collect second hand fabric and get the urge to sew.